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February 1998
p. 51
Constant Craving
Dying for a donut? A pretzel?
Chocolate? Know when to fight the urge - and when to give in. When it comes to cravings, the
evidence is clear: Nutritionally speaking, we’re not to be trusted. We
may rationalize the intense desire to slurp a milk shake as the body’s
desperate cry for calcium, but it just isn’t so. The longing is really
for the Dionysian pleasure of satisfied taste buds. “Usually a craving
is a craving for a certain taste,” says Elizabeth Somer, author of
Food & Mood. ‘Collard greens are a great
source of calcium, but how many times do you crave that?” Maybe never. In fact, most of
us seem to hanker for the same few foods. According to one Canadian
study of more than 1,000 college students, women most frequently crave
chocolate, followed by salty foods and pizza, while men wilt for pizza
first, with chocolate a close second. How to account for the
near-universal jones? One explanation gaining credibility is that
foods contain substances that influence brain chemistry and create a
feeling of well-being. Carbohydrates—whether simple (like candy) or
complex (as in pasta and potatoes)—work as a brain drug that we use
unwittingly to self-medicate, claims Ronald Ruden,
MD.,
author of The Graving Brain. Stress
can lower the brain’s levels of serotonin, the neurotransmitter that
controls mood, creating a “craving brain” in search of something to
raise the levels back up. “When you eat carbs, serotonin goes up,
dopamine [a brain chemical linked to arousal] is constrained, and voilâ,
the brain is bio-balanced,” Ruden explains. Other research implicates
hormones in the munchie machine. A recent study cowritten by Susan
I. Barr, a professor of nutrition at the school of Family & Nutritional
Sciences at the University of British Columbia in Vancouver, reveals why
cravings increase premenstrually: When more progesterone is
secreted, body heat goes up and increased energy expenditure may fuel a
desire for more food Like-wise, exercise, which boosts energy
output, can trigger a binge: Working out lowers liver glycogen
stores. "When glycogen stores go down, appetite goes up",
says
Eric Sternlicht, assistant professor of kinesiology at Occidental
University in L.A. Drinking fruit juice after a workout helps curb
the urge to gorge, since fructose restores liver glycogen to normal. Are we destined to be driven
by our chemical urges? Not necessarily. As kings of the food
chain, we've trained our brains to overrule some of our worst instincts.
The occasional killer urge for something "good" such as a big salad or
protein shake, says Somer, is the result of conditioning and good
habits. "Once you learn to replace fat and sugar with fruits,
vegetables and whole grains, you can eventually reset your brain
chemistry, and won't miss sweets as much." -Samantha Dunn
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